Ask A Bead Babe
What cutters work best for each project?
Q People have said that there are particular cutters I should use for different project, but which ones do I use
where? And can I just use scissors for things like Soft Flex?
-Lisa, Long Beach, NY
A No, you shouldn't use scissors on Soft Flex or any beading wire. Since they're made from steel, they will chip
up and destroy scissors very quickly. You also can't get a nice close cut. You should use a pair of wire cutters,
but not your best cutters to prolong their life. You also shouldn't use the cheapest pair you can find. Just like
scissors, they'll get beaten up very quickly. Use a mid-range pair and when possible, cut further down the blades
to prolong the life of the fine tips.
For wire projects the easiest guideline is that the more you pay for your cutters, the finer and better the cuts you
will get and the longer they will last. If you need to make a flush cut (one with an absolute flat edge, and no
bevelling), find a pair of cutters that advertises that it gives a bevelled cut, and once again, the better quality, the
better the cuts. This gets really important if you will be making ear wires, or cutting rings to be fused or
soldered, or any place where there can't be any sharp finish.
Q People have said that there are particular cutters I should use for different project, but which ones do I use
where? And can I just use scissors for things like Soft Flex?
-Lisa, Long Beach, NY
A No, you shouldn't use scissors on Soft Flex or any beading wire. Since they're made from steel, they will chip
up and destroy scissors very quickly. You also can't get a nice close cut. You should use a pair of wire cutters,
but not your best cutters to prolong their life. You also shouldn't use the cheapest pair you can find. Just like
scissors, they'll get beaten up very quickly. Use a mid-range pair and when possible, cut further down the blades
to prolong the life of the fine tips.
For wire projects the easiest guideline is that the more you pay for your cutters, the finer and better the cuts you
will get and the longer they will last. If you need to make a flush cut (one with an absolute flat edge, and no
bevelling), find a pair of cutters that advertises that it gives a bevelled cut, and once again, the better quality, the
better the cuts. This gets really important if you will be making ear wires, or cutting rings to be fused or
soldered, or any place where there can't be any sharp finish.
Allergies to Silver
Q I seem to be allergic to silver, but I love the look of silver earrings! What can I do?
-Amanda, Lexington, KY
A The first thing to do is to double check that you are actually buy sterling silver, and not a silver plate or
coloration. If you know you have sterling silver you can try coating ear wires in wax, which can cut down on
surface contact with your skin. If that's still no good, try buying or making fine silver ear wires. A lot of people
who have allergies to sterling silver are actually reacting to the copper content. Fine or pure silver has no
additives so it will reduce your chances of an allergy. If that fails, switch out silver ear wires with white gold
ones. They're a little pricier, but you shouldn't have any problems. If cost is a problem, but just one or two pairs,
and carefully switch your earrings between them as needed.
Q I seem to be allergic to silver, but I love the look of silver earrings! What can I do?
-Amanda, Lexington, KY
A The first thing to do is to double check that you are actually buy sterling silver, and not a silver plate or
coloration. If you know you have sterling silver you can try coating ear wires in wax, which can cut down on
surface contact with your skin. If that's still no good, try buying or making fine silver ear wires. A lot of people
who have allergies to sterling silver are actually reacting to the copper content. Fine or pure silver has no
additives so it will reduce your chances of an allergy. If that fails, switch out silver ear wires with white gold
ones. They're a little pricier, but you shouldn't have any problems. If cost is a problem, but just one or two pairs,
and carefully switch your earrings between them as needed.
Making "Safety Chains"
Q I'm so scared my good bracelets and necklaces will fall off and get lost without my noticing. Is there a way of
making a safety chain for them?
-Norene, Fulton, NY
A You can make a simple safety chain by taking a length of fine chain that, when added to the total length, will be
long enough to let your hand through or pull over you head. Attach the chain to secure points on the jewelry
with jump rings, or a neat wire wrap. If you don't want to add huge amounts of chain to a necklace you can add a
small clasp to one end of the chain. Attach one end with a jump ring or wire wrap, and latch the other side to the
necklace to secure it.
Q I'm so scared my good bracelets and necklaces will fall off and get lost without my noticing. Is there a way of
making a safety chain for them?
-Norene, Fulton, NY
A You can make a simple safety chain by taking a length of fine chain that, when added to the total length, will be
long enough to let your hand through or pull over you head. Attach the chain to secure points on the jewelry
with jump rings, or a neat wire wrap. If you don't want to add huge amounts of chain to a necklace you can add a
small clasp to one end of the chain. Attach one end with a jump ring or wire wrap, and latch the other side to the
necklace to secure it.
A Solution to Crimping Various Cords
Q I would like to do more pieces with leather, cotton string, and silk thread. How do I know what kind of crimp
to use for each material?
-Fern
A Most silk, thread and cotton can be ended with traditional crimp ends or clam shells.
For a tutorial on how to use end tips click here.
As for most leather, it can be crimped with crimp beads or crimp ends. The most important thing, when
choosing these crimps, is the size. When using crimp beads, loop the thread through your clasp and run it back
through the crimp like you would with Softflex, then flat crimp with chain nose pliers. Be sure to get crimps
large enough for the cord to pass through twice. If you want to use crimp ends, be sure to check the thickness of
your cord and choose the smallest crimp end that it will fit into. You want your cord to be nice and snug. If it
doesn't quite fit, trim the end into a point. It should glide in much easier.
When it comes to glue, if you end your thread by tying a knot, use glue. This goes for silk, thread and cotton. If
using a crimp, it's not necessary unless the necklace will be carrying a lot of weight, or risks catching.
Q I would like to do more pieces with leather, cotton string, and silk thread. How do I know what kind of crimp
to use for each material?
-Fern
A Most silk, thread and cotton can be ended with traditional crimp ends or clam shells.
For a tutorial on how to use end tips click here.
As for most leather, it can be crimped with crimp beads or crimp ends. The most important thing, when
choosing these crimps, is the size. When using crimp beads, loop the thread through your clasp and run it back
through the crimp like you would with Softflex, then flat crimp with chain nose pliers. Be sure to get crimps
large enough for the cord to pass through twice. If you want to use crimp ends, be sure to check the thickness of
your cord and choose the smallest crimp end that it will fit into. You want your cord to be nice and snug. If it
doesn't quite fit, trim the end into a point. It should glide in much easier.
When it comes to glue, if you end your thread by tying a knot, use glue. This goes for silk, thread and cotton. If
using a crimp, it's not necessary unless the necklace will be carrying a lot of weight, or risks catching.
How to Get Clean and Neat Wraps around Briolettes
Q I can't get consistent, neat wraps around my briolettes. The wire is often crooked or ends up unraveling on
itself. They sometimes even crack. Am I doing something wrong?
-Belinda, Killara, Australia
A This is a very common problem. Not all briolettes are the same. Especially briolettes that are natural
gemstones. These all have very different qualities. This can range from their hardness, the orientation of the
hole, and their size. There are some that are flat and there are some that are round.
Because of this, you need to accommodate accordingly. Be aware of the gauge wire you are using. The standard
gauge for fine gemstones is a 26 gauge, and in some cases, 28 gauge. Make sure that the stone slides easily onto
the wire. If it is too snug, there's a risk of cracking the stone. A thinner wire also allows you to form to the bead
much tighter without applying too much pressure. It will make the first step of bring the wire to the top of the
bead, and wrapping the wire on around the bead much easier and much neater.
In addition, its best to give your self excess wire to work with. It's easier to work with a long wire than a short
one. When your wrap is complete, use your flush cutters to cut on the side, not in the middle, at an angle
forming to the wrap.
Q I can't get consistent, neat wraps around my briolettes. The wire is often crooked or ends up unraveling on
itself. They sometimes even crack. Am I doing something wrong?
-Belinda, Killara, Australia
A This is a very common problem. Not all briolettes are the same. Especially briolettes that are natural
gemstones. These all have very different qualities. This can range from their hardness, the orientation of the
hole, and their size. There are some that are flat and there are some that are round.
Because of this, you need to accommodate accordingly. Be aware of the gauge wire you are using. The standard
gauge for fine gemstones is a 26 gauge, and in some cases, 28 gauge. Make sure that the stone slides easily onto
the wire. If it is too snug, there's a risk of cracking the stone. A thinner wire also allows you to form to the bead
much tighter without applying too much pressure. It will make the first step of bring the wire to the top of the
bead, and wrapping the wire on around the bead much easier and much neater.
In addition, its best to give your self excess wire to work with. It's easier to work with a long wire than a short
one. When your wrap is complete, use your flush cutters to cut on the side, not in the middle, at an angle
forming to the wrap.
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